Our poor little ferret is now 6 years old. Ferrets generally live anywhere from 5-7 years. Last year we did a Deslorelin (Suprelorin) implant, which may have helped and is generally good for 9 months to a year. The implant can be felt at the base of the back of the neck, even after a year. So going in to the vet, we wanted to know if the old implant would be removed or not when adding the replacement implant. We also were curious about Melatonin implant options.
As it turns out, the old implant crumbled as it was being removed. The vet was able to get most of it out, and then added both implants. Given our ferret’s age, we wanted to do what may help extend his life; from our point of view, we just got him! He hasn’t handled anesthesia well in the past, so we had them do a local with minimal gassing along with a pre-treatment of injectable Benadryl (it’s helped offset issues in the past). While the procedure is quick, it took several hours for him to return from being groggy before it was considered “safe” to discharge him.
You can see where the implants were done on his back. The first 24 hours, the vet reminded us, are important as his body temperature may be slightly lower and he would need to be kept warm. We’ll see how he does over the next few weeks as far as behavior and energy level. Had we anticipated better, we’d have a little ferret sweater ready for him, although there’s always the risk of overheating these little fellows. So, moot.
FWIW, Most of the time, the things ferrets die from are glandular tumors. Theories abound, but apparently the main contender is that ferrets are spayed/neutered too young, so they aren’t able to go through the necessary biological changes that help to enhance their lifespan (One way you can tell that a baby ferret has had this done is by the tattoo marks on the ear; Marshall’s ferrets make one mark for de-scenting, and another for spay/neutering).
To our surprise, there are a few solutions to provide heated hummingbird feeders out there, although they can be hard to find. Our solution came in the way of a plastic cup with a lightbulb that was sold in a local wild bird store for $40. Excessive? Indeed. However, it had the one bit that we couldn’t easily (or be bothered to deal with) replicate: A built-in fuse for the tiny 7-watt lightbulb to prevent any fire hazards.
First, the feeder itself is the flat circle type. The hummingbirds seem to prefer this, as it allows them to perch easily. It’s also easier to clean than the traditional bottle feeders.
Once attached by way of some bungee / elastic cords and plastic hooks, it lights up when plugged in and is enough to prevent the food (liquid) from freezing. And at night, it looks like a tiny red UFO in the backyard – bonus!
Indeed, our entertainment needs are simple.
We have an aging cat. He’s about 14 years old now, and he’s our last surviving cat. Lazy Orange Fat Cat, bless her soul, has moved on to greener pastures (Where she can chew on more plastic unhindered by humans and watch the world go by, no doubt).
And we have a shrinking cat tree.
More specifically, as the cat gets older, there is an inverse proportional decrease in the size of the cat tree. Courtesy of some fancy (not really) power tools. Really, we just want him to be able to get up and enjoy his tree. Were it not for the dog, we’d just put his food on the ground. But you know Booper…
The cat used to need the chair (seen to the left) in order to get to the cat tree. However, it’s been gradually getting lowered to the point that now, really, the chair is quite unnecessary. He’s just grown accustomed to it. Cats: Nature’s measure of the need for consistency. Except, that is, for cat trees.
It’s really hard to believe that our ferret is now almost six years old. Apparently, this is almost elderly (depending on who you ask). We’ve noticed his energy level starting to decline in the past few months. Previously, he could be out for hours at a time; now, it’s only 15 minutes at most.
Several years ago, a vet wanted us to be proactive and help offset any ferret-related illnesses. We were prescribed Prednisolone Syrup (3 msg/ml per ml; 0.33 mL per day) which we dutifully gave every day for a year. Did it help? We’re not certain, but we discontinued it as he started to have hair loss at the base of the tail. Apparently long-term Prednisolone use in ferrets can mimmic Cushing’s Disease. About 45 days later, his hair started to grow back.
Another thing we tried was a Deslorelin (Suprelorin) implant to offset the effects of adrenal disease. It seemed to help with his energy level and his ability to maintain his weight, although at the time we weren’t certain. We’ll come back to this in a bit.
When his first period of exhaustion after 15 minutes began, we did the standard labwork panel which, surprise, is quite expensive in ferrets. Nothing showed up; even the xrays were clean.
Finally, we did what we should have asked for in the first place: Antibiotics. The reason it wasn’t the course of first treatment is that there was nothing indicating a need for this. However, the difference was profound! His energy level returned after 10 days of treatment and he was up and about for hours at a time.
A few months ago, his energy level began to decline again. We tried the antibiotic bit again, but there was no difference this time. We started to assume it was his age, and then it hit us that his implant (see above) was likely out. As it had been a little under a year, we hadn’t yet thought about this. So, we’ll try this and see if it helps. Some good reading on ferret implants is at the Ferret Association of Connecticut. Anyhow, stay tuned!
We’ve been pleasantly surprised. Activities that we halfway took to in the past are suddenly paying off, perhaps due to consistency on our part. This summer, we put out wild bird food (those square blocks) and also a small hummingbird feeder. A few months ago we decided to put them back out despite the changes in the weather, and we continue to have a variety of visitors!
Even the hummingbirds are starting to hang out. The only bit that we’ve not been able to tackle successfully is providing a nest for the hummingbirds. They’re too particular, and we lack the oomph to research the needed odds and ends; if it can’t easily be built or bought, we’ll choose the path of least resistance.
For the most part, the cedar shavings that we used to “winterize” the bird nest boxes have done their job: They’ve helped to plug up any joints in the wood walls, have likely given the birds some needed insulation, and most importantly, gave them something to do.
Almost immediately, we noticed that the European Starlings started removing portions of the cedar shavings. This behavior is similar to what we see during nesting season: The male puts nesting material in the box, and when he attracts a female, she promptly removes everything inside (to redecorate, we assume).
The shavings are also dropped around the outside of the nest, which helps us identify if a nest is actively being used or not. While they tolerate flash photography while in their nest at night, it’s certainly not something without a degree of stress for them.
Also, you can see the indentation in the far back of where the bird(s) end up nesting, almost to the bare floor, yet surrounded by the cedar shavings in their nest.
All in all, we’ve been pleasantly surprised at how fast and how consistently the nests have been used this winter. It’s new behavior, although to be fair, we’ve never had new nests up this late in the cold season before.